Welcome to Paradise! For those who haven’t been here before we had better warn you now that this is a very intoxicating place, a place where time stands still and people don’t take life too seriously. There are plenty of examples where people have arrived at Paynes Ford for two weeks and left two months later. Why, you may ask? Better ask that again after you have been here two weeks and try to leave. There are almost 400 climbs at your aching fingertips.
Paynes Ford caters for most needs – from the hard rock junkie to the mellow hang-out types. It’s got easy access; there are a variety of grades and types of climbing, good swimming holes and deep water bouldering for when it gets hot. The steep solid limestone dries quickly and climbing is only inhibited by the wettest weather – it’s even good in mid-winter (when the friction is better).
The coastal cliffs of the Pohara area offer a different style and environment to the climbing at Paynes Ford itself. There are more moderate climbs, the rock tends to have flat, positive, small edges, and routes are longer – up to 30m in some areas. Most cliffs are north-facing, thus are exposed to the sun until early afternoon. Pohara rock dries quickly and is the perfect place to climb year round.
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