Location: Local name for the truncated base of the North Ridge of Mitre Peak in Milford Sound. Up to 200m vertical walls, a massive capping overhang, and slabs on the west side. Logistics can be a little tricky but well repaid by some of the most spectacular climbing anywhere. Copper Point juts out into the Sound and constricts the sea breeze so it can get blowy. On the plus side, this often keeps the sand flies away. Wind shells, long sleeves, long thin socks you can climb in and insect repellent are all a good idea.
Approach: The kayak operators know the drill for Copper Point access. Google “Rosco’s Milford Kayaks” and talk to them about your trip. They’ll give you the biggest possible window between drop-off and pick-up (and probably a radio to give them progress updates). They are most familiar with the Siren’s Call start location. For Siren’s Call, Have your harness and climbing shoes on, gear racked and be ready to climb as you step off the boat since there is no “ledge” at the base. Feeding the ropes irectly out of a pack for the start is a neat trick.
Descent: Walk off 1-2 hours from cliff tops down to beach. Find the well marked track at the cliff edge near the top out of Ship Of Fools. Follow this via a really cool swim hole to the beach. Some exposed fixed lines for the final bit after the swim hole. Thank Ed Nepia next time you see him.
This free PDF also includes approach instructions. It is intended to be printed as a double sided colour A4 sheet.